Guest post by Claire from Remote & Afloat

In 2017 I made a life-changing decision to embark on an epic journey around South East Asia, in search of some of the world’s richest coral reefs. At the heart of my trip was Indonesia, where I spent the best part of two and a half years on an underwater adventure exploring Indonesia’s top dive sites. This inspired me to launch my own ocean jewelry collection which gives a portion of its profits back to coral reef conservation.

My expedition proved that this country truly is a scuba diver’s dream, but as a keen freediver and snorkeler, I also discovered that there are many amazing snorkel opportunities and excellent dive sites for snorkeling in Indonesia too.  If you’re an adventurous snorkeler looking to go beyond the house reef, here are 5 of my favorite dive sites for snorkeling in Indonesia.

1 – Batu Bolong, Komodo

best diving in indonesia dive sites

Batu Bolong was my very first taste of snorkeling in Indonesia. The site is located in the middle of Komodo National Park, roughly 3 hours by boat from the town of Labuan Bajo. By arranging a basic liveaboard with a local guide directly from the harbor, I was able to visit this isolated dive site. 

On first impressions, I was a bit skeptical, as Batu Balong is nothing more than a tiny outcrop of rock sitting in the middle of the ocean. However, Batu Balong is one of the most famous dive sites in Indonesia and I was about to find out why. This dizzying dive site is nicknamed the ‘washing machine’ due to its strong up and down currents, which bring health and abundance to the reef. On its topside, snorkelers can admire layer upon layer of colorful hard corals and thousands of orange anthias fish. 

Life literally explodes from this never-ending pinnacle reef, which gravitates deep into the ocean, making Batu Bolong an excellent dive site for freedivers. Aside from its variety of reef fish, pelagics such as black and white tip sharks, mantas, and even dolphins can be spotted here.

About Batu Bolong:
Depth: 1-70m
Coral: Excellent
Fish life: Excellent
Current: Strong
Experience: Advanced
Entry: Boat 

2 – Lekuan, Bunaken 

bunaken best diving in indonesia dive sites

After Komodo, my travels took me to North Sulawesi, specifically Bunaken Marine Park. With its laid back vibes and not much else to do except snorkel and dive, the island of Bunaken is a low-key choice for scuba divers and snorkelers in the know. 

I spent several weeks exploring the marine park here and found my favorite spot just a few kilometers from Bunaken’s shores. This arc-shaped reef spans the southwest side of Bunaken Island and is so large that it is split into 4 individual dive sites: Lekuan I, II, Pygmy and III. 

I chartered a traditional outrigger boat with a willing fisherman from nearby Liang Beach to reach all 4 spots and found these dive sites to be impressive on all levels, offering fantastic visibility, healthy corals, schooling fish, even macro! 

Between Lekuan II and III the reef drops into a vertical wall, which disappears dramatically into the blue. This freediving spectacle is topped with overhangs and seafans, black corals and sponges. Attention to detail reveals nudibranchs and porcelain crabs hiding in the corals, but be sure to keep an eye on the blue for passing sharks, hawksbill turtles and eagle rays. 

Although Lekuan is exposed to the ocean, the currents here are manageable and only really noticeable along the corners of the reef, disappearing almost as quickly as they came. 

About Lekuan :
Depth: 1-40m
Coral: Excellent
Fish life: Excellent
Current: Mild to Medium
Experience: Beginner
Entry: Boat 

3 – Citrus Ridge, Raja Ampat

best diving in indonesia dive sites

For me, Raja Ampat easily offers some of the best snorkeling in the world. I spent almost 8 months here, after getting completely hooked on its mesmerizing coral reefs and pristine biodiversity. Although I cannot fault the scuba diving opportunities in this region, there is something incredibly special about Raja Ampat snorkeling, and the mysterious Citrus Ridge is no exception.

Situated in the remote northwest of the Raja Ampat regency, this intriguing coral reef structure can be found meandering along a channel of water, which snakes its way through the mangroves. Fringing corals cling to opposing landmasses, creating a protected haven for soft corals and sea creatures to thrive. By following the drop-off from an uninhabited Robinson Crusoe style beach, you’re almost instantly met with swaying corals in pastel colors amongst sponges and sea fans adorning the sandy floor of this dive site. 

As the reef declines into a deep channel of water, an exhilarating swim across ‘the ridge’ leads to more treasure. Just at the tip of the opposite island, there is a bounty of coral species and an unbelievable mix of fish life including families of feeding bumpheads, schooling jacks, trevally and fusiliers. A highlight for me was spotting my first wobbegong shark swimming from one table coral to another.

With excellent visibility and some of the best corals at 5-10 meters, Citrus Ridge is perfect for freediving but be aware of its strong currents. Water and waves funnel into the channel from the open ocean causing a surge; therefore confident swimming skills are advised. 

About Citrus Ridge :
Depth: 3-20m
Coral: Excellent
Fish life: Excellent
Current: Medium to Strong
Experience: Intermediate
Entry: Shore or boat 

4 – Liberty Wreck, Tulamben

liberty wreck best diving in indonesia dive sites

Bali became a bit of a base for me throughout my travels and I spent nearly 3 months in the northeast of the island exploring its volcanic waters, diving and snorkeling every day. I found some of the best snorkeling in Bali in Tulamben, specifically at the USAT Liberty Wreck, which is the most famous wreck dive in Indonesia. 

The Liberty is a whopping 120 meters in length and is truly impressive. Immersed in 1963, every inch bursts with biodiversity. At its shallowest, the ship sits at around 5 meters, which is perfect for snorkeling. However, if you’re a confident apnea freediver and can hold your breath long enough, exploring its deep caverns, dark spaces and coral coated walls should definitely not be missed. 

Soft corals, sponges, gorgonian fans and anemones sweep across the ships decomposing edges, attracting a wealth of fish life including eels, bumpheads, triggerfish, napoleon wrasse, groupers, sweetlips, butterfly fish and even turtles.  Despite this being one of Bali’s most popular dive sites, the scuba divers down below do not obscure the view from above, as they are usually hiding in the ship. 

About Liberty Wreck:
Depth: 5-30m
Coral: Excellent
Fish life: Excellent
Current: Mild 
Experience: Beginner
Entry: Shore 

5 – Manta Sandy, Raja Ampat 

best diving in indonesia dive sites

There are almost too many great Raja Ampat snorkeling spots to mention, but this legendary cleaning station made it onto my list, as it is one of the best dive sites for snorkeling in Indonesia if you want to spot manta rays! Manta Sandy’s seabed lies at around 20 meters, just off the island of Arborek. It is here that scuba divers will kneel and wait on the bottom for a magical performance to begin. 

Often appearing without warning, like stealth bombers cutting through the blue, countless rays circle gracefully in unison to feed and clean at Manta Sandy.  From the top, snorkelers are able to experience the mantas at an entirely different viewpoint. Rising to the surface, these friendly reef mantas allow snorkelers to swim alongside them in a very intimate manner, swooping playfully up and down.

It is an experience not to be missed and definitely a highlight of any Raja Ampat trip, especially from November onwards when the mantas arrive and stay until March to feed in the plankton rich waters. Outside these months there is less guaranteed siting’s, however one can never predict nature! 

About Manta Sandy:
Depth: 5-20m
Coral: Fair
Fish life: Excellent
Current: Mild to Medium
Experience: Intermediate 
Entry: Boat 

Is Indonesia the best snorkeling in the world?

My experience of diving and snorkeling in Indonesia clearly demonstrates that this country encompasses some of the very best snorkeling in Asia, if not the world. Whether you’re crazy for corals or a big fish lover, there really something for everybody. It is hard to fault such pristine reefs overflowing with biodiversity!

Guest Author Bio
Claire Ullah is the co-founder of travel blog Remote and Afloat and the ocean jewelry brand Citrus Reef. Her combined passion for travel, snorkeling, and diving has taken her on a unique journey to some of the world’s richest coral reefs and remote tropical islands. Follow Claire as she charts her experiences both over and under the water.

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the arch in cyprus

It’s fair to say that there has been some confusion
surrounding the loosening of the lockdown. We’re confident that the
Great British public will use their famed common sense to work
things out – after all, this is the nation that elevated queuing to
an art form – but in the meantime, we’ve turned to a few of our
favourite marine species for inspiration on how to socially
distance, and compared them to some species whose behaviour leaves
a lot to be desired. In short, be more sole than shoal.

Hammerhead

Great Hammerhead Sharks vs Scalloped Hammerheads

Great hammerheads are a solitary species and
migrate long distances (upwards of 800 miles) alone. There are a
few spots they can be seen around the world, with one of the very
best being Bimini
in the Bahamas, in just 8m of crystal clear waters, meaning you can
enjoy the experience of seeing these monsters (which can reach as
long as 20ft) for longer.

Scalloped hammerheads, on the other hand, can
congregate in very large schools of hundreds or more adults.
Scientists are still unsure exactly why they do this at certain
times of the year (they do ‘socially distance’ at other times), but
if you are lucky enough to witness one of these schools, it is a
truly magical experience. Our favourite places to see schooling
scalloped hammerheads include the
Galapagos
,
Socorro
(Mexico) and
Cocos Island
(Costa Rica).

Mobula rays

Oceanic Manta Rays vs Mobulas (Devil Rays)

Stat attack: The oceanic manta ray is the
largest ray and one of the largest fish in the world. Reaching
widths of up to 29 ft, manta rays are much larger than any other
ray species and are typically solitary animals, although they do
congregate to feed and – obviously – to mate.

Closely related to mantas, mobula rays are an
open water species that feed on plankton and other micro-organisms.
They have been known to form huge schools – sometimes exceeding
10,000 (not a typo) individuals. See these schools off the coast of
Mexico
in Southern Baja California (between mid November and January)
and in the Sea of Cortez (between mid April and early July).
Mobulas are famous for their ‘aquabatic’ feats and can regularly be
seen leaping from the water.

Dolphins

Blue Whales vs Bottlenose Dolphins

The blue whale is the largest animal ever to
have lived, with a maximum recorded weight of 190 tonnes. Apart
from females with their young, blue whales are solitary animals
that only occasionally gather in groups to feed. They are found in
both polar and tropical water worldwide, migrating between the two
at different times of year. It is possible to see them off the
coast of Sri Lanka between November and April.

At the other end of the cetacean scale, bottlenose
dolphins
are very social animals, and often travel in
groups called pods. The most common is a nursery group of between
five and 20 dolphins made up of females and their calves, although
occasionally they will gather in groups (with males) of 1,000 or
more. They often hunt together and learn different tricks for
catching food from one another (such as using sponges to dig up
buried prey) in a fascinating example of cultural transmission. Our
favourite spot to see bottlenoses also happens to be one of the
best dive sites in the world: the Tiputa Pass in
Rangiroa
, French Polynesia. A resident pod of around 20
regularly comes to visit divers, with three individuals famous for
being particularly interactive.

potato cod

Potato Cod vs Barracuda

The potato cod is identified by the large,
potato-shaped blotches on its body, and is mainly found in tropical
waters. It is generally a solitary species and can be found on
coral reefs from depths of five to 150 metres. They are also bold
and inquisitive, and grow to a maximum length of seven foot and a
maximum weight of 220 pounds. The best-known location to see them
is the aptly named Cod Hole, located off Lizard Island in the
northern part of Australia’s
Great Barrier Reef
.

The barracuda is a large type of predatory fish
found in the warmer, coastal regions of the world’s oceans. There
are more than 20 different species, ranging in size from less than
two feet to nearly seven feet in length. While they are considered
to be solitary while hunting, young barracudas tend to gather in
large schools, sometimes in hundreds or even thousands, which
offers the young fish protection from predators on the basis of
safety in numbers. Barracudas can be seen in many different
locations, but one of our favourites is Bradford Shoals seamount in
Kimbe Bay,
Papua New Guinea
, where there is a resident school of around
1,000 barracudas that form the most spectacular torpedo-like school
in 40m visibility.

Peacock mantis shrimp

Peacock Mantis Shrimp vs Pistol Shrimp & Goby Fish

Peacock mantis shrimps might as well be called
anti-social shrimps. They are famous for their attacking ‘punch’ –
the strongest in the animal kingdom relative to the creature’s
weight – which disables prey and acts as a pretty potent social
distancing measure. They can be highly territorial and have
developed complex social behaviour to defend their space from
rivals without the risk of punching or being punched.

Meanwhile, pistol shrimps are inveterate
burrowers and are constantly maintaining and creating new burrows
in coral reefs and mangroves. They enjoy a symbiotic relationship
with the goby fish that share their burrows in a
phenomenon known as ‘mutualism’. Pistol shrimps have very poor
eyesight and so aren’t able to see predators until it’s too late,
so the goby fish stands guard outside the burrow watching for
potential threats while the shrimp continues to dig. Because of
their poor eyesight, the shrimps touch the gobies with their
antennae to communicate. This pair can be found across the
Indo-Pacific region.

Guest post by Camille from The Smiling Seahorse

Every scuba diver wishes to one day be the first person to blow bubbles on a new dive site, but the reality of it is that there are very few remaining places on our planet that we haven’t yet discovered. The Mergui Archipelago might very well be one of the last diamonds in the rough. This mysterious collection of 800 mostly uninhabited islands that span a space of over 36,000 square km off the western coastline of Myanmar, also known as Burma, is largely unmapped to this day. Inaccessible by land, the region was opened to tourism in 1997 but with regulations on visas and travel, there are still few companies offering to cruise this heaven on earth. 

diving mergui archipelago burma liveaboard

Not only will you be alone on every dive site but there is some great diving to experience in Myanmar: the underwater landscape is made of beautiful coral reefs in pristine condition, tunnels and pinnacles, inhabited by colorful tropical fish, schooling barracuda, and trevallies, incredible macro life from the rare harlequin shrimps to ghost pipefish and seahorses all the way to the biggest ocean wanderers: giant manta rays and whale sharks.

How to get to the Mergui Archipelago?

The entry to the Mergui Archipelago is through Kawthoung, at the southern tip of Myanmar. Kawthoung can be reached by plane from the capital, Yangoon, but it is much easier to reach from Ranong. Indeed, Ranong is on the other side of the border, in Thailand, and only 300km north of Phuket. The best travel options to get in the area would be to either fly into Ranong from Bangkok or take on the road from Phuket.

Furthermore, a few diving companies based either in Khao Lak or Ranong offer diving cruises in Myanmar. Indeed, a liveaboard diving cruise is a great way to get to the archipelago and discover it. Based in Ranong, the Smiling Seahorse is the only boat operating exclusively in the Mergui Archipelago. Of course, there is a greater choice of liveaboard options in Myanmar for you to look into.

diving mergui archipelago burma liveaboard

Best time to go on a diving cruise in Myanmar

The season in Burma starts in October and goes until mid-May when the monsoon season rains start rolling in. Water temperatures sit pretty constantly around 27°C year-round but it is still recommended to bring appropriate exposure protection to keep you in top shape for multiple dives in a day. Night dives in Burma are particularly spectacular so don’t miss out! Some divers also choose to bring reef hooks along for the trip as you can expect fairly strong currents due to the 6-hour tidal change. 

Myanmar Liveaboard itineraries

Depending on time and interests you can choose from a variety of cruise packages ranging from 6 days/5 nights to 9 days/8 nights which include between 17 and 29 dives. With 4 dives and 4 meals per day on the schedule, you can leisurely embrace your inner fish in style. No matter the duration of your trip you will be treated to some of the most coveted dive sites of the area with chances to see a variety of animals ranging from tiny macro life to large pelagic fish. 

Every cruise visits Western Rocky, a tiny island with a beautifully sunlit passage straight through its center in the south of the Burmese seas. It also features 4 islets whose walls are covered in colorful sponges and soft corals that are certainly worth a visit. Here we often see a large number of lobsters, harlequin shrimp, frogfish, and many more.  

diving mergui archipelago burma liveaboard

Black Rock is considered the best dive site in the archipelago and is only visited by those adventurers on the longer cruises as it is quite far north. This dive site’s plunging walls descend to 100m and often treats its visitors to stunning 35m+ visibility. Black Rock is most famous as Giant Oceanic mantas breeding ground but gets close to the rock formations to catch a glimpse of ghost pipefish, and endemic tapestry shrimps or look out into the blue for schools of tuna, mackerel, and barracuda. You can even meet some larger creatures like eagle rays and large blotched stingrays. 

For those enthralled by swim thought, Shark Cave will be a highlight. With many underwater caves and tunnels or large rocks hiding regularly nurse sharks up to 4m long or blotched stingrays and whiptail rays. The seafloor before the shark cave is carpeted with yellow sponge and once you pass the last tunnel, a coral garden bordered by a sandy area provides a home to giant moray eels, mantis shrimp (both spearing and smashing), cowries, and sea slugs of all types.

diving mergui archipelago burma liveaboard

North Twin, located several miles offshore, offers a topography made of granite boulders alternating with sandy patches. The site is covered in gorgonian sea fans and soft corals. Many schooling fish call this place home, such as big-eyed trevally, batfish, snapper, and yellow-tailed barracuda. Plus, keep your eyes open in the blue for the passing mantas. Moreover, some special cruises even get the chance to go through the real unchartered territory of the northern Torres Islands or the western Burma Banks. This is where the thrill-seekers get their kicks with exploratory diving and where you have the best chance of pioneering a dive site. 

The Burma banks are also known as a shark destination and we often see hunting nurse sharks and species unseen on the rest of the Mergui Archipelago like the honeycomb Murray or clown triggerfish.

As far as bucket-list dive sites go, the Mergui Archipelago has to be one of the least known diver’s paradise. With fewer than 50,000 travelers to the region every year and a lot fewer divers, you can count on private dive sites, not shared by any other dive boat.  


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